7 Hall of Fame

Installation Manual as training manual

Receiving feedback on our Wooden Floor Installation Manual always gives us a buzz, the feedback we received this week from a professional colleague certainly did:

From Ron Bacon / RC Bacon Ltd

I am a flooring contractor with over 40 years experience in all types of carpet and flooring.

I have an improver (Steve Glen) who is excellent at laying certain types of wood floors, but who lacks confidence.

So I decided to increase his knowledge to handle this, on the premise that knowledge (when gained) = willingness to be cause, thus responsibility which brings about increased ability to control. Then I noticed your book and decided to get it for him to save time in providing him with data for his training. It didn’t matter that the data was not necessarily relevant to his current work for it was helping to clear up misunderstoods and false data he had accumulated from verbal technology given to him by others, who also had obviously suffered from dissemination of false data by others in the past.

Recently he completed a splendid herringbone parquet installation with a tramline inset border, of which he is rightly very proud and so am I. Pictures attached.

So thank you for providing the data in your book, it is of tremendous value.

Kind regards

Ron Bacon

RC Bacon Ltd
T/as RC Bacon Carpets & Flooring

Excellent work by RC Bacon's improver - with a little help from Wood You Like's Installation Manual

This result definitively deserves its rightful place in our "Hall of Fame"!

Double Wenge strip - tramline - exactly following the contour of the doorposts - top result Oak herringbone floor installed by improver for RC Bacon
 

 
All images provided by RC Bacon Ltd

All the way to California

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

Would love to use Elastilon, but am advised against it.

Our "reach" online goes a long way.

I am planning to install 5/8" x 5 & 1/8" T&G Maple engineered hardwood flooring. I will be installing over concrete in a 20 year old home. An installer friend said I need to either glue down plywood and then nail the floor to this or glue directly to the concrete. I would like to use Elastilon as it sounds easier and would add some sound barrier and cushion. He said this will ultimately not work as you can not float a T&G Engineered Wood floor. It will buckle or gap after a few years.

In researching Elastilon, I am having trouble finding any good reviews, most say they like the concept but no one seems to have used it. I am stuck as to which way to go. Can you help? I am located in the US - California.
Mark W.

International Reviews on Elastilon

Elastilon self-ashesive underlayment for wooden flooring, available from Wood You Like - Kent

Thank you for your question. Your fitter friend is mistaken (but this can be down to regional difference in installation methods and experience of course). !5 x 130mm Wood-engineered can be installed using the floating method, if the boards are longer than 400mm average.
With Elastilon you do not really "float" the floor, the boards are truly stuck down - on the underlayment, not on the concrete floor.

You can find reviews here - even some from "your neighbourhood" in Northern America
(Elastilon has its own US based website here)

Decision made - Elastilon it is

Based on your answers and some comments I received from others, I have decided to use Elastilon. My friend is not sure it was the right decision but since I will be doing most of the work, I am comfortable with it. I do not yet have the wood so have not started to install. I will let you know how it goes in about a month.

One concern I have is the largest room is 20 feet wide. Will this be OK? On one of your pages (I think, I have looked at a lot of information) I saw that the limit is 5-6 meters wide which puts me right there. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Mark

Rules of Thumbs

The "rule of thumb" on that particular page is for Solid (Oak) flooring, with wood-engineered boards you're good up to 11 meters wide.
(Side-note, do keep in mind these rules ar on width of the actual wooden floor, not just on the width of the room. See also our article "Keeping your wits about widhts!"

Results:

Thanks for your help. I will let you know the outcome next week.
Mark W - California

Karin,
Here are a couple of pictures of the first room in the works. I think it turned out rather well considering it was our first try. I particularly like the way the floor has a slight “spring” to it so it does not feel so hard when you walk on it.

Rolls of Elastilon rolled out to start the installation of Maple Wood-Engineered flooring
Progress on the installation of Maple Wood-Engineered flooring over Elastilon self-adhesive underlayment
The finished result of the Maple Wood-Engineered by Mark W from California

Nice work, Mark. You deserve a place in our DIY Showcase Gallery

Looking for suitable underlayment, you will find various types of underlayment in our secure webshop, including Elastilon Basic


Stunning unique convex and concave pattern - one year in the making!

As far as we know, this must have been the absolute ultimate DIY project: one whole year from "thought to fruition" and not without a set-back once in a while. But determination has paid off and we can only congratulate our persistent DIY-er Cyril and have the deepest respect for the task he had set himself.

Idea

Cyril's first idea for a design parquet pattern

Early May 2010 (06.05.10) we received Cyril's first email about the above pattern: would this be feasible in wood strips glued down to a concrete base? Once we discussed the options there were (making sure the strips would be as long as needed to avoid joints in places not wanted) Cyril visited our showroom (driving down from the south coast on his bike) where Maple (his preferred wood species) grades were further discussed.

Back on the south coast Cyril had a rethink and thought, why keep things simple:

When straight lines are not simple enough

Now, I'm not a mathematician but that does look very complex, but nice. A bit like a 2 dimensional "Wovin wall".

I guessed (correctly, see Cyril's reply) the amount of saw-waste for this pattern would be tremendous:

I have worked out the saw waste. In fact a did this very early on. Your phrasing 'an over average percentage of "saw-waste"' made me laugh. When I worked out the percentage of the wood that is wasted by this design I almost cried. There will be an most as much saw dust as pattern wood.

Even when it turned out our Design Parquet manufacturer can do many shapes and patterns, as long as the lines are straight, Cyril pressed on.
It not ready-made, then hand-made is the way forward. He "simply" made his own jig to cut the desired pattern out of specified on width solid Maple tapis parquet.

The making of this bespoke jig turned into a project of its own.
As Cyril explained to me it he turned it into a complete "factory line":

The principle of Cyril's factory line with jig number 3The Jig is design to take a plank. When making the first cut of a plank, it is inserted into the jig (as shown by the dotted line) and the three sides of the piece is cut. I then slide the plank into the jig until it hits a stop (as shown by the dashed line). At this point I can cut the last side of the first piece and the first three sides of the second piece. With the first piece cut I can remove it and slide the plank to the stop. With the plank once more against the stop I can then cut the last side of the second piece and the first three side of the third piece. I continue in this manner until I am left with a off cut that is between 40 - 138 mm long. This off cut will be used for the soldier.

The plan the cut three planks at a time. I will stack three planks and place then in the jig. This way I speed up the cutting process by a factor of 3 (every little help when you have 2584 piece to make). So having three plank the same length will help keep the factory line going for longer.

2 "prototypes" further down the line the jig was ready:

The third jig for the Convex and Concave maple design parquet floor The plate was made by a design engineering company called Safire, based in Southampton. I mounted the plate on a wooden base and added two quick release clamps, to allow me to quickly release and secure the wood between cuts.

The first test of this clamp revealed a few teething problems. At first I was not getting a consistent shape tile. I worked out the wood must be moving very slightly dew to the force of the router cutting bit. This problem was fixed by gluing sand paper to the bottom of the Jig plate and to the jaw of the clamps. The next problem was that the wood would not sit flat against the jig plate. I believed this was caused by the clamps not applying even pressure to the wood when locked. I managed to get a more even pressure by applying tension between the two clamps (see the red string put under tension by a piece of wood under the jig).

In the process of getting to this point I found that using the router created a lot of dust. So I looked at how I could attach a dust extractor to my router. I found the simplest way was to attach the hose of the dyson to the router. I was surprised at just how well this worked. You can see wood chips on the floor of each picture so it did not capture everything. But it did capture all the small Particles of dust. So when I finish the test the wood was on the floor and not in the air.

So with all of this done the jig is ready to go. It still has one problem but I think once I start using the real wood it will not be an issue."

He hoped. But as it turned out (being September 2010 by now) the router bearings he used were not up to the tasks at hand. After waiting for what seemed like ages new bearings finally arrived only for him to discover there was a problem with the collar - holding the bearings in place. Off to order a new collar only to find out that had a defect and off to order a replacement.
All the while the "factory" stood still.

"So the saga continues. I am takeing bets on whether I will get it done by Christmas...... I am not saying which year"

Subfloor down - November 2010

We always recommend to install an Industrial Grade Oak 7-finger mosaic subfloor first when you plan to install a Design Parquet floor onto a level and dry concrete floor. This subfloor will enhance the stability of the complete floor, plus provides the smoothest surface you can have - sanding the subfloor smooth will save you time and effort sanding the design parquet floor, illuminating many height differences before you start the installation of the (valuable) top floor.

And besides, it's a simple job:

I have laid the wooden sub floor and plan to sand it this weekend. Can you thank your suppliers for me? Having the fingers lay out on the string latis make laying it very simple.

Christmas came and went

The bearing kept breaking, no matter what. Even the manufacturer couldn't find faults and a second cutter - different brand this time - broke down too.

So once more I am looking at the jig to try to determine what is causing the router cutter bearing to break. I have an idea about what is causing the bearing to brake on the jig. I will be making some minor adjustments to the jig. When I get some new bearings I will give it another go.

I may take you up on your offer at a later date. But for now I will wait to see what effect the change to the jig makes.

By the way I was able to cut 32 pieces before the bearing broke. I have laid the pieces out and I am very pleased with what I see. The light is reflecting off the pieces just as I imagined. Using the jig gives a very accurate cut so the pieces fit together very well. Keeping them in place when gluing will be a problem but I will cross that bridge once I have cut out all the pieces.

So when I said "I just wanted to update you on my progress over the holiday" may be I should have said "I just wanted to update you on my lack of progress over the holiday".

Two weeks later: hooray!

The first result of the Convex and Concave Maple Design Parquet FloorWell..... The revision I had made to the jig seem to have worked. I used the jig for over 8 hours and the router cutter bearing did not brake. I used a jig saw to cut the piece to a rough size before using the router to cut the finished piece. I am glad to say that about 95% of the pieces are as I expect. Hopefully this will be good enough.

I was hoping to cut 60 pieces an hour but because I have to cut each piece to a rough size first, I am making 27 pieces and hour. Therefore, it will take me a while to cut the 2584 pieces I need. At least now I seem to have worked out all the problems and can start the production line.

It was a minor change to the jig that make all the difference. The outside corners of the jig were pointed. I notice sparks flying off the corner with a double circle, in particular. So I got these corner rounded off.
If I am not careful it will still spark. But it looks like this simple change has made a big difference. Here is a picture of the pieces I have cut so far.

Cutter not cut out for the works:

Factory line standing still on the Maple floor project Luck run out again for Cyril, once again caused by the bearings. Different make of cutter, while both brands using the same bearings, meant they broke after 6 pieces. The first brand cutter was out of stock, hence the switch to brand two. With the result of having to shut down the factory line again until the "old" cutter was available again.

"So just when you think the end is in sight the plot takes an unexpected twist"

A hundred working hours later

Then, end of April:

Well I am pleased to say that I have cut all the pieces for the central section. It has taken over 100 hours of work ( my fingers are feeling a bit stiff from the work out of holding a router trigger for so long). In fact I have finished gluing them down too.

Before sanding

Hiring a decent sander to finish the works came with its own problems Cyril discovered:

The unsanded Convex and Concave Maple Design Parquet floor When I spoke to you on Friday the floor had been laid and glued. All I had to do was sand and polish. With a extra long weekend it looked like I would get it finished. What can I say, nothing ever seems to go as you would expect with me.

On Saturday I went round a few hire shops to hire a re-finishing sander. Only one shop had one available so I took it with some sand paper. I could not start on Saturday because I had an appointment but I thought I would set up the sander and test it ready to start work Sunday morning. Just as well I did. Would you believe the sand paper would not stick to the bottom of the sander!? I contacted the hire shop. They had given me the sand paper from a new batch they had just opened. They checked the remaining sand paper in the batch and sure enough the batch was faulty. They found 3 sheets of 60 grit sand paper. But this was no way near enough paper for me. So the floor is still unfinished. I hope to finish it this weekend. In the mean time here are some pictures of the floor in its un-sanded state.

One year and three days after initial email:

09.05.11 Ta-da!

It has been a long while coming but it is here. I have now laid to main section of the floor and here are the pictures.
I just have to do the transitions and I am finished.
A friend came round and had a look at it. He suggested I rebuild the house and the floor, as the floor was too good for the house!

Thanks for all your help and advice. Your book was very helpful and I would recommend it is anyone.

Cyril, it has been an absolute pleasure to help you any which way we could (unfortunately we're wood people, and know absolutely nothing about bearings, cutters and collars I'm afraid). Don't think many would have continued a huge project like this with all the problems thrown your way, but you kept on going regardless and you have every right to be absolutely proud of the results: it looks stunning!
You've earned your place in our "Hall of Fame" more than anyone else as far as we are concerned.

THe Convex and Concave Maple Design Parquet floor in its full glory! The finished result in detail: Convex and Concave Maple Design Parquet Pattern

 




Installing Design Parquet, a short guide (very short)

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

Bought your book, but..

Wood You Like's first manual on installing wooden floorboards Hello, I have just received your book (wooden floor installation manual) and on the face of it, it looks very informative. however I seem to be having trouble finding the information on laying parquet flooring. Do you have information on best order when laying parquet blocks in a herringbone pattern with a two block boarder. The books seems to be how I renovate the floor rather than installation. Thank you

Peter J - Scotland

In short (very short):

Thank you for your question. This (first) manual is focusing on installing floorboards, the next manual will be more on installing design parquet floors. This is in the pipe-line, but finding enough time to dot all the i's and cross all the t's is proving to be a problem at the moment.

For your project, in the most simple order:

  • make sure you have a flat, dry and level underfloor. Depending on the wood blocks (thickness, with or without T&G) you should install a plywood or industrial grade subfloor on a concrete floor first. Do note you cannot glue anything down on chipboard that has a moist repellent surface
  • determine the middle line of the room (take into account no room has straight walls at perfect 90 degree angels) and install your first two rows (one pointing left, one pointing right) and let this row fully bond to the underfloor so it does not move from its pattern when continuing with the next rows.
  • continue the rows as far as possible, even over the "border line" 
  • let the whole pattern bond fully to the underfloor 
  • using a plunge saw to remove excess wood so you are left with a straight edge for the border to be installed next to
  • let the border bond fully with the underfloor 
  • if your blocks are unfinished, use a belt sander and edge sander with grit 40 to remove most -if not all - height differences between the blocks 
  • empty the dust bag and start the second sanding round with grit 80. Collect this clean dust to mix with the wood-filler
  • apply the mix of wood-filler and sand dust to any gaps you can find and let the filler dry
  • using grit 120 on the belt sander and edge sander, remove excess filler from the wood. This third sanding round prepares the surface for the finish you plan to apply. If you want to apply varnish/lacquer you'll have to sand a 4th time with grit 150 
  • apply the finish of your choice according to the instructions of use

Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd

Results

Thank you for your prompt reply, yes it does help thank you. There doesn't seem to be many books on the subject.

Peter also kindly enough emailed us pictures of the great result he managed to achieve:

Oak herringbone after sanding

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Oak herringbone after finishing coat

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We hope to extend on this very, very short guide this year and have our Design Parquet Floor Installation Manual available (paperback and as E-version, just like our first Manual on installing wooden floorboards).


How to treat that little bit of concrete?

In our Installation Manual we explain it is always best to create one type of underfloor in order to have to same conditions between underfloor and new floor everywhere. Often this needs to be done when two old rooms are knocked into one and where one has a concrete floor and the other existing floorboards.
See here for more details on this.

But how about having just a little bit of concrete?

We received the following questions from a "reluctant" DIY-er set to work on a new wooden floor by his better half.

Thanks for your email, the installation is coming along nicely, your book has been a great help.
It is proving a little more difficult with still trying to "live" in one half of the room.
I do have a question that maybe you could be of some help with.

I am laying on wooden floors, so using a foam type underlay, but where the fireplace was, there is a concrete subfloor measuring about 3 foot by 18 inches (sorry old school).
Am I ok to carry on with this type of underlay, or should it have a damp proof bit?
John C

If small, keep it simple

Hi John

Thank you for your email.
Such a small area of concrete will not cause any moist problems (presumably the concrete it also "laid" on the original floorboards and not a complete thick block of concrete going way down into the void?) so you don't really need to use a DPM there.

Hope this helps. When your finished, any chance of pictures of the end result?

Not as nice as building steam engines

Thanks for your speedy reply, very much appreciated.
I have now fitted out one room, skirts to put on and then wallpaper. Boy do I hate wall papering.
But I suppose it will keep her indoors happy so that I can get back in my workshop and spend time on my real passion of building steam traction engines.
The flooring I bought does seem very good quality, and quiet therapeutic to lay. But not as nice as building steam engines.
Thanks once again

John

A true reflection of work well done in pictures

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ps:
As requested a couple of pics.
The pics look like two different colours, but the lighter one is a true reflection. Even managed to work it so I can still get under the floor in the far corner, without it being too noticeable.
Just got the other half of the room to do now DOH.
Hope they are to your liking, and thanks once again for all your help.

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If you have your own project in mind and are wondering how to tackle certain problems, feel free to ask our help too.

Call us on 01233 - 713725 to discuss your options, prices of recommended products and lead times.


The saga of the 5-finger mosaic floor painstakingly re-installed

Once in a while a conversation in our inbox turns into a complete and wonderful saga. Read on......
(Whole "conversation" published with approval of our client)

Why HardWaxOil?

Question: Why should I use Hard Wax Oil rather than A Good quality Varnish such as Mega, Bono Nova etc on my Parquet Floor which I am currently restoring? This is a 5 finger parquet. I have in the past used the above varnish very successfully on in excess of 5 or six pine and oak floors and wonder why you would choose the HWO finish?

I would also like to buy your Modern Parquet Floor Adhesive to re-install a few loose 'fingers' that have become loose-do you deliver to the Saltdean area of Brighton? Thanks for your help, I enjoyed your web pages.
David H

Hi David
Thank you for your question. You are absolutely free to choose whatever finish you like, if you prefer varnish then who are we to stop you?

We prefer an oil (HardWaxOil for Oak, single oil and wax-polish for tropical species) because in our and many of our clients experiences it is easy to apply, and brings out the character of the wood much better than a varnish. Oil allows the wood to breathe while it is protected against dirt and drips. Also, damages can be repaired locally without having to sand the whole floor to prevent patches where new varnish overlaps old varnish.

What wood-species is your parquet floor?

If you only have a few loose blocks/fingers, grip-fill can be used. No need to purchase a minimum tub of 7.5 F.Ball B91 adhesive.

Hand sanded!

Hello Karin, Thank you very much for your quick and candid and very informative reply - nothing like a direct answer I say. I didn't mean to portray myself as a Smart Alec but re-reading my email I see that I could have been more friendly. I'm sorry for any offence.

Continue reading "The saga of the 5-finger mosaic floor painstakingly re-installed" »


Mahogany Parquet Floor - with some persistence a beautiful result

DIY conversation in our email inbox: (do you have a question yourself - use this form to ask us)

Installing a tropical parquet floor in your home can seem like a daunting task, specially when you discover not all blocks are of the same level.

But when you persist, the rewards are bountiful as one of our DIY-ers experienced.

How to tackle lower blocks?

I am just about finished laying a mahogany parquet floor. Am a little concerned that one or 2 blocks are a bit low and will require surrounding area to be sanded down a lot. What would you recommend and which sander to use? Floor is 16 m2

Two options:

Specially reclaimed blocks can have height differences: not all could come from the same original source, some could have been sanded and others not or, when having removed bitumen from the back with a saw or chisel more or less wood could have been removed too.

Noticing this height difference before your install the actual block can prevent extra work, but once you're in the rhythm of spreading adhesive with the correct notch trowel and sticking down block after block, keeping a constant eye on the pattern being tight together it is not a wonder you sometimes only realise this difference later on.

Option 1: carefully remove the offending block and replace it with a better fitting one, especially if the height difference is more than 3 - 4 mm

Option 2: let the belt sander (not a drum-sander!) tackle the height difference as much as possible with the first sanding round (grit 40). When the difference is only 1 or 2mm, it should not take away much wood from the surrounding blocks. Don't try to tackle the difference with a hand held sander first, the movement of the sander on only the surrounding area produces a different "pattern" than the belt sander and could show up once the finish layer is applied to the floor - and then it is too late to correct this without having to resand.

Result:

Thanks a lot for your reply to my query.
Laying this T/G parquet has tested my DIY skills/patience to its limit as the room is unsquare, unlevel and has very fiddly edges everywhere. However I have prevailed and have only 10 or so awkward xxxx's left.
Have decided to sand right down with the machine you recommend and hope all goes well. Then varnish I think.

Thanks a lot for your interest and assistance.

Feedback

We frequently receive questions like to above and always want to know if the advice, tips given has been useful and to the point. Mark gave us 10/10

The answer that I got from you was concise, accurate and was above my expectations.

I am now confident that my progress with this project will proceed without the doubt that often nags when one is doing DIY not attempted before.
As far as rating is concerned the 10/10 - 5 star.

Will recommend anyone I come across to check with you if they need services, products or advice

The (almost) finished product:

Mahogany parquet floor, sanded to perfection

As promised a picture of new floor with half of the varnish coats applied.
All in all very pleased with the result. Its not perfect as the sander was a bitch to control in such a small room but compared with what was there before real luxury.
Thanks for your help and interest.

Mark J

At your service.
If you have your own project in mind and are wondering how to tackle certain problems, feel free to ask our help too.

Call us on 01233 - 713725 to discuss your options, prices of recommended products and lead times.


DIY client featured in Selfbuild & Design

Wood You Like seems to attract a rather large number of self-builders/renovators from all over the UK (and further afield: skilled diy-ers from France, Germany and even from the USA have found their way to our inbox and online shop).

One of these very skilled diy-ers (or should we even call them semi-professionals) emailed us the following:

Our house to be featured in Selfbuild & Design

"Dear Karin
I hope you and Ton are well.

Just a brief line to let you know that our house is to featured in 'Selfbuild & Design' magazine - as far as I know in the October issue which goes on sale towards the end of August.

Both the externals and internals feature and since we've got a lot of your oak engineered board downstairs, that should feature reasonably prominently as well. The link came via Potton who had been trying to get our house featured in a self-build magazine for a while.

The photographer was here all day taking shots - I attach one of the hall with your engineered boards in it. I have no control over what exactly they publish or which of the many photos, but I was asked to provide a list of about ten key suppliers to us. It is my understanding that they will list these in the article with phone numbers/email addresses. Naturally Wood-You-Like was one of those I mentioned."

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Many thanks John. The image above not only shows the Duoplank Oak Rustic, oiled natural looking its best, but the eye for detail in every single aspect of the self-build John and July created almost from scratch. It shines through in the image below too:

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Checking the Selfbuild & Design website we discovered the whole feature is published in the September issue, see here.

John emailed us again after receiving his copy of the magazine:

"We've seen a copy of the magazine that goes on sale later this month and we hope it does justice to the service and products that you provided us. 

There are plenty of downstairs shots (4) of rooms that include the engineered boards and the text includes the words "The supplier of the engineered oak boards was particularly helpful - offering technical advice about how best to lay the product over underfloor heating.

Then there's your website listed under Useful Contacts at the back of the article - which, mercifully, has been correctly written."

In July 2007 John and July also very kindly wrote a case study installing the wooden floor over the UFH system for which we and many of our clients using UFH are still very grateful.


Ash Wood-Engineered floor - DIY-er Martcho

As authors of the Wooden Floor Installation Manual we are always eager to hear how DIY-ers get on with installing their wooden floor with a little help from our manual.

Extra advice

Through our online "Ask Advice" form we received a question about using a specific underlayment from a Dutch manufacturer. The DIY-er in question, Martcho based in South-East England, was strapped for time and could therefore not level out his whole floor using self-leveling compound, just small parts. To get the floor more level in the quickest of times, he needed the special underlayment to try to diminish the problem.
The only product seemingly available in the UK from this manufacturer was in our opinion more suited for laminate flooring than for the wood-engineered floor Martcho was planning to install.

In the end he did manage to source the more suitable type of underlayment from the same Dutch manufacturer and emailed us the following, including pictures of the end result:

Hi Karin
It is almost complete, the screed was dry, but not as level as wanted or hoped. The flooring is laid, cut the doors next week, put the skiring and the rest of the door mouldings and voila - job done. I managed to get the Paladin underlay as you advised.
The floor seems to sag a bit here and there but I hope not too much. I guess it will settle a bit and with the weight of the furniture. And it looks fantastic. The missus is very happy.

Best Regards,

Martcho

"Wild Ash"

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Ash, an European wood-species can have a very "wild" colour difference between the boards, from "mother of pearl" spots to dark brown splashes

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It does create a very lively floor though.

Send in your own pictures and stories

If you purchased the "Wooden Floor Installation Manual" too (paperback and/or E-version) and have finished your floor, you're also more than welcome to submit your pictures.

We are creating a growing "show-case" of DIY results with a little help from our manual. As stated in our manual: installing a wooden floor is not rocket science, and these show-cases are the proof in the pudding.


Creative with herringbone blocks

Standard wood blocks are 9 times out of 10 used to create a herringbone pattern in a room. Why? Because that's what we know from the olden time and it is therefore one of the best known design parquet patterns.

Solid wood blocks in herringbone pattern, one of Wood You Like's specialities

As you can see in the above image, this pattern really suits a square or rectangular room, making it even more spacier and lively with all the individual small blocks (10 x 71 x 284mm).

Not a rule set in stone: be creative

There's almost no limit to the designs you can create with Wood You Like's standard wood blocks

The beauty of having individual blocks is that you can easily create a design that suits an awkward space better than a herringbone would. One of our DIY design parquet clients tackled his hallway in a creative way shown here. The specific measurements of the standard blocks enabled him to design a large mosaic (284/71 = 4) creating a playful and impressive result most suited to the shape of the hallway.

Standard wood blocks from our Design Parquet manufacturer always come in specific measurements which allow you to be as creative as need be. Besides the 71 x 284 there are the
71 x 355 (5 x 71)
90 x 360 (4 x 90) and
90 x 450 (5 x 90)

Running comments from our proud client during and after the installation, sanding and finishing of his "bespoke" design floor:

"I glued the final pieces in place this morning and I’m very pleased with the results. It took longer than I expected because of the cutting around the 5 doorways and the stairs but I have an excellent mitre saw which proved invaluable. I have the sanding machines arriving on Saturday and will be finished sometime over the weekend.

Had a busy Bank Holiday and I didn’t manage to waxoil the floor until Tuesday and I’m very pleased with the colour.
I found the Trio sander very nice to work with.
I just have to finish fixing skirtings, carpets and thresholds.

Thanks for your help and advice."

Richard O - London

At your service.
If you have your own project in mind and are wondering how to tackle a not so square and rectangular room, why not design your own "bespoke" wood blocks pattern? Let your creativity flow.

Call us on 01233 - 713725 to discuss your options, prices and lead times.


Prime Oak Plait with 'soldiers'

The winner of the DIY-triumphs contest March 2009 is Neil (Plymouth) who entered our contest with an extra-ordinary floor:

Prime Oak in the design pattern Large Plait, surrounded by Prime Oak 'Soldiers' (a perpendicular border).

Solid Prime Oak Design Parquet large plait - work in progress Prime Oak perpendicular border around larg plait design pattern The final result: Design Pattern in Prime Oak
(click on image for enlargement)

Neil submitted the following with his entry:

"Before we found your company we were about to give up on the idea of a real parquet floor. I am however pleasantly surprised at how well it turned out…
I certainly learnt as I went and used your advice and DIYNot postings on a regular basis. Thanks very much for all your help with our order"


Congratulations to our winner, the price (1 free maintenance product) will be on its way to Plymouth shortly.


DIY Triumph February 2009

The winner - drawn out of our big hat - for February's DIY Triumphs contest is (drum roll, please)....
John , Caroline and Nick:

Wood You Like Duoplank Oak Mammoet plank, aged, smoked and oiled natural 200mm wide (John tells us the floor looks even better in real life, the picture doesn't do it the justice it should according to him).

The floor is a Duoplank Mammoet "Oeral": wide boards, aged, smoked and oiled natural.

You can read John, Caroline and Nick's story in our DIY-triumphs gallery here.

Congratulations, the maintenance product of your choice as price is on its way to you.

Need help on preparations and want to learn the tricks of the trade before you start your project: check out our Comprehensive Installation Guide.


DIY-Triumph Contest - winning entry April 08

Our congratulations to T. Brennan for winning the DIY-Triumph Contest for April 08

His triumph -  a 10 day labour of love (read his whole story) - is a lovely restored Oak herringbone parquet floor (see pictures below) and he can now select a suitable maintenance product as prize.

Brennan01 Brennan02 Brennan03

While we're on the subject of original parquet floors, if you are in the process of repairing, restoring a beautiful and valuable floor our Wood Floor Guide:

7 Easy Steps to Repair/Restore Your Parquet Floor

helps you on your way.

 

Enter the "DIY-Triumphs" Contest

Did you install a wooden floor yourself and are you Darn Proud of it?

Then enter Wood You Like's DIY-Triumphs Contest
(update 01.07.2010, contest now closed, see note below)

Honest and high quality products together with honest and high quality information is always a winning combination. Our own growing band of proud DIY-clients - as far as Scotland - show that time after time.
Installing a natural wooden floor is a labour of love - you'll have to take the right preparations, make sure you have all the right materials and tools at hand and you'll have to take your time: this is not something you can rush. Not if you want a result to be proud of and one that will increase the comfort and the value of your home.

Our own webpages are filled with honest high quality products and high quality honest advice for everyone. We are always more than happy to answer any remaining questions and have installed a very simple online question form for this very reason.

Every time we finish the installation of a wood floor for one of our clients we leave the job with proud feelings and experience tells us that most of our clients who install their own floor feel the same. Job well done!

We are now giving every DIY-er the chance to show-off their DIY-Triumphs in our dedicated photo gallery. Wood You Like is inviting you to enter our "DIY-Triumph"
contest.

UPDATE 01.07.2010: contest is now closed for new entries. But...... the gallery is still there as a show-case of DIY-ers who used the Wooden Floor Installation Manual to assist in the installation of their floor. The gallery (and this category "Hall of Fame") shows the pictures of the end-result and where possible a story behind the installation.
(The pictures and stories from the DIY-contest are also still "live")

Did you install your own wooden floor with help of the Wooden Floor Installation Manual? Then feel free to email us your pictures and story.