One of the questions we received last week:
Dear Wood You Like
I have just discovered under carpet a floor of oak wood blocks (in a herringbone pattern and in a generally good condition). The location is the hallway (approximately 9 square meters).
80% of the blocks were loose so I have lifted them all and cleaned them as much as I can, however I haven't been able to remove the bitumen (which is generally only a thin layer) that held them to the concrete floor.
Once I have relaid them I would like to sand and satin a lighter more even colour.
My questions are:
1. What can I use to re-stick them to the floor that will ensure adhesion, ease of application and fairly quick use afterwards. I have had variuous suggestions that include: Everbuild Pink Grip grab adhesive; Everbuild 908 DPM; Ruberoid syntheprufe; Laybond L17 Woodblock. What would you recommend of these or of any other product?
2. What dye/stain product would you advise?
3. What method of gap filling (and product) would be best?
4. What sealing product to maintain a hard wearing finish?
Thank you. I look forward to hearing from you.
Mr G.B.
Our answer:
If there is only a thin layer of bitumen left on blocks and underfloor it is best to use Lecol5500 F.Ball B91
Be aware that the residue of bitumen will increase the time it takes for the adhesive to bond properly. Normally it takes around 6- 8 hours, it could take up to 24 hours or longer when there is bitumen involved. So be careful when walking on it and when sanding the floor.
As for the finish layer, we recommend a coloured HardWaxOil, this gives a long term protection and a natural look, no matter what colour you use. It stains and seals the wood in two layers - no other products needed.
For filler (to be mixed with sands-dust of the second sanding) we recommend Blanchon Resin Filler
Hope this helps to restore your rediscovered parquet floor, a valued possession in any house!
See also our Wood Floor Guide:
"7 Easy Steps to Repair/Restore Your Parquet Floor"
"If and how your parquet/mosaic floor can be restored without sanding" - new guide
Just had an oak floor fitted and there are some fairly large up to 5cm knot holes in it. What would you advise be for filling these holes?
Posted by: Katharine Partington | 15 July 2008 at 07:10 PM
Hi Katharine
The seize of the knot normally depends on the grade you bought and if appropriate to the grade are part of the character.
You could fill them with hard wax - if your floor has an oiled finish.
Wood You Like Ltd
Posted by: Karin H. | 16 July 2008 at 12:48 PM
I had 20mm oak wood flooring laid last summer 07 in the hallway and through lounge. The flooring cost me £1700 and and further £700 to have it fitted. We have recently discovered that the planks near the lounge door entrance is starting to raise creating a bouncing effect and restricting the door from opening/closing. The floors are also creaking now. The thing is I do not recall any membrane being laid between the timber sub floor and the new oak floor. I want to go back to the tradesman who fitted it but wish to check first how liable is he for not recommending and carrying out the laying of a membrane to prevent moisture from damaging my floors. I am told i may need to take the whole thing up. What should i do? Please help!!
Posted by: Teresa Dawkins | 22 September 2008 at 10:54 AM
Hi Teresa
On existing floorboards you should never use a moist membrane: this could cause condensation between the membrane and the existing floorboards: these and the joists could start to rot.
Did the area you live in receive a lot of rain lately and/or were air-bricks for needed ventilation covered up recently? Call back you fitter and have him check the expansion gaps near the troubled area. Cutting off a little bit of the boards near there might be enough to resolve this.
Hope this help
Wood You Like Ltd
Posted by: Karin H. | 22 September 2008 at 11:30 AM
help, is it possible to have electric ribbon underfloor heating underneath parquet floors?
Posted by: pfheating@aol.com | 31 August 2009 at 08:30 AM
Hi pfheating
Yes it is, as long you can install the ribbon underfloor heating underneath plywood (8 or 12mm exterior grade). The plywood then acts as subfloor onto which you can glue down (with flexible adhesive) your parquet blocks/tiles
Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd
At 08:30 31/08/2009, you wrote:
Posted by: Karin H. | 31 August 2009 at 10:08 AM
thanks for the reply, the blocks are already down and i'm a little dubious about taking them up and then relaying them.
Posted by: pfheating@aol.com | 31 August 2009 at 09:32 PM
Then I don't really understand your question about installing electrical UFH underneath a parquet floor.
What exactly do/did you have in mind?
Wood You Like Ltd
At 21:32 31/08/2009, you wrote:
Posted by: Karin H. | 01 September 2009 at 08:59 AM
Hi, please could you help me, I have some reclaimed oak blocks which i wish to lay, am i better to sand them individually before i lay them as once laid the wood grain will be in many different directions (herringbone pattern) will this be problam?
Posted by: Traylee | 04 January 2012 at 09:16 PM
Hi there
Sanding before you install them might get rid of any original finish, but you might end up with height differences meaning you still have to sand again.
Sanding a herringbone should not be a problem - it's never for us - when you follow the normal sanding steps, as described here
Kind Regards
Wood You Like Ltd
Karin Hermans
Posted by: Karin H. | 05 January 2012 at 09:32 AM