Previous month:
March 2007
Next month:
May 2007

April 2007

New Range: Antique Hand scraped and Hand destressed Oak

Wood You Like hand scraped and hand destressed Oak flooring Wood You Like is happy to announce the addition of  Antique Handmade Oak wood-engineered range into their Charing showroom:

Hand scraped Oak Rustic and Hand destressed Oak Rustic, both pre-oiled in 4 colours:
Oiled Natural, Oiled White, Smoked and Smoked White oiled.

The Antique Hand destressed boards have a character of timelessness that fits with nearly every interior design style; the Antique Hand scraped boards add that rough texture you expect from floors centuries old.

Both types are 15mm thick with a 4mm Solid Oak top layer, bevelled on the long sides and are pre-finished oiled for quick and problem free installation in any room. The construction of the wood-engineered boards make this range also suitable to be installed in kitchens and conservatories.

Visit our showroom in Charing to see and feel the newest innovation from The Netherlands or see our online brochure for other details.

Wood You Like Hertog's aged Oak flooring


Managing 60,000 football pitches

We recently reported on our (Dutch) Duoplank manufacturer's involvement with Forest Stewardship Council and reforestation in South America.

FSC and creating sustainable forests is on ongoing business. Life is 'give and take'. This rule applies more than ever in the 30,000 hectare FSC forest owned and managed by Inpa in Bolivia.Wood You Like FSC forest in Bolivia

"Put everything back into the forest what you have taken out. Call upon the services of the local inhabitants, but give them their due. Show respect for all forms of life in and around the forest."

This is the philosophy which J. Roosenboom, founder of the Dutch company, believed in 20 years ago and implemented his philosophy with reforestation projects in Paraguay.

Read more...

 


Traditional herringbone woodblock floor on a concrete

Q by Stephen Brown:
Hi.
I want to lay a traditional herringbone woodblock floor on a concrete base. Can you tell me

  1. What adhesive I should use?
  2. Whether the blocks should only be glued to the concrete floor or whether they should also be glued together with PVA?
  3. Is there a best time of year to do this from the point of view of shrinkage / expansion of the blocks (each block is about 11" x 3")? i.e in the summer when the air is moist or in winter when the air inside the house is dry?
  4. I have seen advice that says you should start a herringbone floor in the middle and work outwards. Is this correct? I'm thinking of a double herringbone pattern with a two block border. Unfortunately it is not a straight rectangular room but has a hearth to work around!

Thanks.

Our answer - read more:


To kit or not to kit?

Q by Steven Derix: To kit or not to kit?

We are laying (or rather: having laid) a floor of so called 'industrial parquet'. The floorpieces are solid oak, about 16 cm in lenght, and 6 cm wide. The pieces are glued on an wooden surface. They will get a finishing of oil.

Naturally - the strips of wood being natural oak and quite small - there are small gaps between the floorpieces. The manufacturer advised us to fill in these gaps with a mixture of sawdust and some filling materail, a glue based on solvents, ore on a water-base. However, my 'parquetteur' (French for floor guy) is not keen on doing this. According to him, the kitting will come loose because of the shrinking/expanding of the wood, and because of the vibrations of the wooden underlayment caused by walking accross the room. Both arguments I put to the manufacturer. He says this is nonsense. The parquetteur however, persists. Whom to believe?

Our answer:

Hi Steven

Thanks for this question.

There will be small gaps indeed (if your parquetteur (parket-legger in Dutch, floor fitter in English) does his work correct it wouldn't be too many and only tiny ones.
And if he collects the sand-dust of the seconds sanding (grit 80, mixes that with wood-filler (like Lecol 7500) and 'plasters' this over the whole floor all gaps will be filled. After this has dried (goes rather quickly) the third sanding will remove any excess filler from your floor.

We've done this many times over and never had any problems with the filler coming out of the tiny gaps. So the manufacturer is right.

Just wondering however about the grade you mention: Industrial Grade Mosaic is normally only used as subfloor for Design Parquet Patterns (like herringbones) when installing on concrete floors.

Hope this helps.

(received kind reply back from Steven: It is, thanks. Actually, I got the same advice everywhere. I ordered the Floor Fitter to fill in the gaps.)


Wooden Flooring Finish: oil or lacquer? Advantages and Disadvantages

One of the hardest questions to answer is: what makes a better finish, lacquer or oil/HardWaxOil?

First of all it’s down to personal taste and secondly to what is expected of the floor, e.g. easy maintenance, shiny look or natural appearance of the wood.

buffing wax wooden flooring Historical the wax floor is still seen as very labour intensive to maintain, who doesn’t have memories of caretakers buffing away endlessly week after week after week (be it your “Gran” or the school caretaker). Then came the ‘modern’ lacquer (and synthetic and affordable wall-to-wall carpets) and the original wax floor almost became extinct.

For many decades..................(read more)


Installing floorboards in small areas: to float or not to float?

We received a question this week if it was possible to install wooden floorboards in a small hallway using the floating method.

A 'floating' floor means the floorboards (solid, wood-engineered, veneer or melamine laminated floorboards with T&G's all around or click-system) are placed on top of the correct underlayment, and not secretly nailed on subfloor or on joists or fully glued down on level and sound underfloor. It's the most simple way with the least hassle and preferred by many DIY-ers and professional floor fitters.

The reason for the question was the worry if the weight of the floor in a small area would hold the floor down sufficiently even if installed underneath skirtingboards.

That worry is really uncalled for: the floor has no place to go if

  • installed properly on level underfloor
  • sufficient amount of expansion gap is kept all around the perimeter of the floor
  • door posts are cut under so the floor slides underneath (for neat finish and extra 'holding down power')
  • even if flat beading or scotia/quadrants are used to cover the expansion gaps instead of skirtingboards the (light) weight of the wooden floor, the furniture, the 'holding down power' underneath door posts, installed thresholds etc will hold the floor down and allow for the seasonal natural movement of the boards.

We've installed many floors in small areas (hallways, landings etc) using the 'floating method' without any problems.