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« March 2007 | Main | May 2007 »

April 2007

28 April 2007

New Range: Antique Hand scraped and Hand destressed Oak

Wood You Like hand scraped and hand destressed Oak flooring Wood You Like is happy to announce the addition of Hertog's Antique Handmade Oak wood-engineered range into their Charing showroom:

Hand scraped Oak Rustic and Hand destressed Oak Rustic, both pre-oiled in 4 colours:
Oiled Natural, Oiled White, Smoked and Smoked White oiled.

The Antique Hand destressed boards have a character of timelessness that fits with nearly every interior design style; the Antique Hand scraped boards add that rough texture you expect from floors centuries old.

Both types are 15mm thick with a 4mm Solid Oak top layer, bevelled on the long sides and are pre-finished oiled for quick and problem free installation in any room. The construction of the wood-engineered boards make this range also suitable to be installed in kitchens and conservatories.

Visit our showroom in Charing to see and feel the newest innovation from The Netherlands or see our online showroom for prices and other details.

Wood You Like Hertog's aged Oak flooring

20 April 2007

Managing 60,000 football pitches

We recently reported on our (Dutch) Duoplank manufacturer's involvement with Forest Stewardship Council and reforestation in South America.

FSC and creating sustainable forests is on ongoing business. Life is 'give and take'. This rule applies more than ever in the 30,000 hectare FSC forest owned and managed by Inpa in Bolivia.Wood You Like FSC forest in Bolivia

"Put everything back into the forest what you have taken out. Call upon the services of the local inhabitants, but give them their due. Show respect for all forms of life in and around the forest."

This is the philosophy which J. Roosenboom, founder of the Dutch company, believed in 20 years ago and implemented his philosophy with reforestation projects in Paraguay.

In 2001 the company bought its own forest in Bolivia, South America. Sustainable management of the forest by the company is also the key to long-term operational management - in and around the forest. A fully self-supporting micro-economy has been created: the forest has its own road infrastructure, its own water and energy suppliers, not only benefiting the company and the forest but also the local residents, who are closely involved in the project.

FSC in practice
Managing a forest of 30,000 hectare is no sinecure. The surface area is roughly the same amount as 60,000 football pitches. The management procedure in itself is impressive:

  • The forest engineer and helpers search the depths of the forest for trees and gradually make a map of the whole area
  • An (ongoing) inventory of the forest is drawn up
  • The FSC has to grant permission for tree-felling, requested per 'block' of forest
  • In each block trees are cut selectively - the block is then closed for at least a quarter of a century and is only accessible to scientist who carry out research.
  • Every cut tree bears a permanent accompanying FSC label.

The 'harvested' trees are then processed in one of the 4 company's own sawmills in Bolivia. The equipment of these sawmills are the state of the art: a modern saw, a self-grinding machine for saw-blades and an adjustable 'intelligent' decision-maker, The Opticut, which decides how each plank must be sawn.
The wood is pre-dried in the drying-sheds before it's transported further to the company's parquet factory in Paraguay and from there finds its way to final destinations all over the world.

To our showroom in Charing for instance. Wood You Like has a whole range of Duoplanks on show, from the Oak range to - of course - most of the FSC wood species.

Wood You Like FSC Tarara Amarillia

19 April 2007

Traditional herringbone woodblock floor on a concrete

Q by Stephen Brown:
Hi.
I want to lay a traditional herringbone woodblock floor on a concrete base. Can you tell me

  1. What adhesive I should use?
  2. Whether the blocks should only be glued to the concrete floor or whether they should also be glued together with PVA?
  3. Is there a best time of year to do this from the point of view of shrinkage / expansion of the blocks (each block is about 11" x 3")? i.e in the summer when the air is moist or in winter when the air inside the house is dry?
  4. I have seen advice that says you should start a herringbone floor in the middle and work outwards. Is this correct? I'm thinking of a double herringbone pattern with a two block border. Unfortunately it is not a straight rectangular room but has a hearth to work around!

Thanks.

Our answer:

Hello Stephen

  1. You can use any normal parquet adhesive (Lecol5500 or Styccobond B92 - see our online-showroom for more details).
  2. If your concrete floor is sound, level and dry you can glue the block directly onto the concrete, using a notched-trowel and placing the blocks into the glue will make the adhesive 'seep' upwards to bond the blocks together also
  3. No special time of the year is favourite. You just have to make sure the wood is acclimatised in the room(s) you plan to install it; the rooms are wind and weather tight; the air-humidity is between 45 - 65% and the temperature (effecting the bonding time) is between 17 - 23 degrees Celsius
  4. To start in the middle is the best way forward (install your first two rows and let that fully bond with the underfloor so it will act as a fixed 'barrier' to install all next rows to), even in rooms where there are apparently no straight walls. The installed pattern will work as a 'straight' focus line for your room. As for the hearth, install your border also around it, much nicer look.

Hope this helps

Wood You Like Ltd

Did you install your wooden floor yourself and are you darn proud of it? Enter our DIY-Triumphs contest!

To kit or not to kit?

Q by Steven Derix: To kit or not to kit?

We are laying (or rather: having laid) a floor of so called 'industrial parquet'. The floorpieces are solid oak, about 16 cm in lenght, and 6 cm wide. The pieces are glued on an wooden surface. They will get a finishing of oil.

Naturally - the strips of wood being natural oak and quite small - there are small gaps between the floorpieces. The manufacturer advised us to fill in these gaps with a mixture of sawdust and some filling materail, a glue based on solvents, ore on a water-base. However, my 'parquetteur' (French for floor guy) is not keen on doing this. According to him, the kitting will come loose because of the shrinking/expanding of the wood, and because of the vibrations of the wooden underlayment caused by walking accross the room. Both arguments I put to the manufacturer. He says this is nonsense. The parquetteur however, persists. Whom to believe?

Our answer:

Hi Steven

Thanks for this question.

There will be small gaps indeed (if your parquetteur (parket-legger in Dutch, floor fitter in English) does his work correct it wouldn't be too many and only tiny ones.
And if he collects the sand-dust of the seconds sanding (grit 80, mixes that with wood-filler (like Lecol 7500) and 'plasters' this over the whole floor all gaps will be filled. After this has dried (goes rather quickly) the third sanding will remove any excess filler from your floor.

We've done this many times over and never had any problems with the filler coming out of the tiny gaps. So the manufacturer is right.

Just wondering however about the grade you mention: Industrial Grade Mosaic is normally only used as subfloor for Design Parquet Patterns (like herringbones) when installing on concrete floors.

Hope this helps.

(received kind reply back from Steven: It is, thanks. Actually, I got the same advice everywhere. I ordered the Floor Fitter to fill in the gaps.)

15 April 2007

Wooden Flooring Finish: oil or lacquer? Advantages and Disadvantages

One of the hardest questions to answer is: what makes a better finish, lacquer or oil/HardWaxOil?

First of all it’s down to personal taste and secondly to what is expected of the floor, e.g. easy maintenance, shiny look or natural appearance of the wood.

buffing wax wooden flooring Historical the wax floor is still seen as very labour intensive to maintain, who doesn’t have memories of caretakers buffing away endlessly week after week after week (be it your “Gran” or the school caretaker). Then came the ‘modern’ lacquer (and synthetic and affordable wall-to-wall carpets) and the original wax floor almost became extinct.

For many decades most of the wooden flooring in the U.K. were pre-finished lacquered or lacquered/varnished on site. Maintenance became simple, buffing a thing of the past and there is a choice between high gloss and matte appearance. The newest innovation in lacquer even has the same appearance as an oiled floor to make the wood look more ‘natural’.

The biggest disadvantage of a lacquered finish on a wooden floor is that it ‘sits’ on the floor. When damaged with a sharp object or due to the long term abrasive effect of dirt (‘dirty’ shoes ‘sanding’ away in heavy traffic areas or under chairs, tables) the lacquer doesn’t protect the wood any more and dirt/moist will make the wooden floor look ‘grey’ regardless of maintenance efforts. In fact, cleaning damaged areas with a moist cloth will make things worse.
The only proper solution would be to sand the complete floor and to apply a new finish. Applying a proper lacquer layer is a job for the specialist, lacquer is not very forgiving to mistakes made.

The labour intensive maintenance of the old-fashioned wax-floor has now become a thing of the past: oils replaced the many layers of wax. The oil penetrates the wood deeper than lacquer and makes it moist resistance, but allowing the wood to ‘breathe’. A hardwax layer is applied afterwards to make the wear and tear layer water repellent.

Nowadays most oiled floors are pre-finished (or finished on site) with HardWaxOil, combining the natural oil (long term protection) and the carnauba or bees hardwax (wear and tear layer) in a two-in-one product. It’s very easy to apply and a very forgiving product when some mistakes are made, in fact an ideal DIY-finish (but we strongly recommend you read the instructions thoroughly and use the right equipment).

It has a great surface density and therefore very resistant to abrasive movements. Besides that, any (small) damages are very easily repaired with some wax or maintenance oil without the need to sand the whole floor.

Wood You Like, Natural Wooden Flooring maintenance productsThe appearance of the finished wooden floor is matte satin with the advantage of making the floor look warmer, deeper in colour over the years.

An oiled-waxed or HardWaxOiled wooden floor requires slightly more maintenance than a lacquered floor, but not on the level of the old-fashioned knee and backbreaking wax floor, the modern maintenance products have taken care of that.

For advice on proper maintenance see our extensive tips and advice page.

Have we answered the question of what makes a better finish? No, sorry we still can't. Ultimately it is still down to personal taste, we're afraid.

p.s. our personal favourite finish is HardWaxOil (just so you know)

13 April 2007

Installing floorboards in small areas: to float or not to float?

We received a question this week if it was possible to install wooden floorboards in a small hallway using the floating method.

A 'floating' floor means the floorboards (solid, wood-engineered, veneer or melamine laminated floorboards with T&G's all around or click-system) are placed on top of the correct underlayment, and not secretly nailed on subfloor or on joists or fully glued down on level and sound underfloor. It's the most simple way with the least hassle and preferred by many DIY-ers and professional floor fitters.

The reason for the question was the worry if the weight of the floor in a small area would hold the floor down sufficiently even if installed underneath skirtingboards.

That worry is really uncalled for: the floor has no place to go if

  • installed properly on level underfloor
  • sufficient amount of expansion gap is kept all around the perimeter of the floor
  • door posts are cut under so the floor slides underneath (for neat finish and extra 'holding down power')
  • even if flat beading or scotia/quadrants are used to cover the expansion gaps instead of skirtingboards the (light) weight of the wooden floor, the furniture, the 'holding down power' underneath door posts, installed thresholds etc will hold the floor down and allow for the seasonal natural movement of the boards.

We've installed many floors in small areas (hallways, landings etc) using the 'floating method' without any problems.

Did you install your wooden floor yourself and are you darn proud of it? Enter our DIY-Triumphs contest!

07 April 2007

Wicanders WicCork colour palet

Wicanders "The Natural Choice for Environmental Floors"

On our website you can now find all colours and designs available in the following WicCork ranges:

Wood You Like WicCork environmental floors Chose Natural Cork flooring for any of the following benefits:

  • Built-in thermal insulation
  • Built-in acoustic insulation
  • Comfortable to walk and stand on
  • Extremely wear resistant
  • Increased slide resistance
  • Enhances natural features
  • Easy maintenance
  • Healthy and hygienic
  • Environmental friendly
  • Fast and easy installation

For more information on Natural Cork, visit our showroom (24 large samples) or our speciality page

About

  • Wood You Like Charing, Kent UK Wood You Like
    Natural Wooden Flooring
  • Wood You Like applies and promotes the Kiss principle (Keep It Simple Sweetheart) in all areas of the business.
    This means we will give you straightforward advice in plain English and without the technical jargon.
    Our tips and advice blog covers many areas of Natural Wooden Flooring: from the benefits, installation tips to taking care of your wooden flooring.

    It is very simple for you to ask your own question: follow this link to our online question form
    Here you can ask your own question and we will answer it to the best of our knowledge and as quick as possible. If relevant your question will be turned into a new post for the benefit of our other visitors.

    As the acknowledged authority on wooden flooring, many architects, interior designers and property developers, nationally and locally, frequently call 'Wood You Like' for advice on choice and suitability of different wooden flooring and advice on the fitting and maintenance.
    If you have a query, try our 'tips and advice' pages that follow - or give us a call on 01233 713725 for your personal solution to wooden flooring.

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