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January 2007
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March 2007

February 2007

More on underlayment

I've read your guidance on installing over 2 types of subfloor.  In our case most of the floor is newly laid concrete with two areas of wood floorboards.  You suggest a dpm over the concrete and then hardboard over the whole area.  What thickness of board & what type (?ply) do you recommend? How should it be fixed?
We're concerned about the overall thickness of the floorcovering, it is the hall with five doorways off, with four different floorcoverings on the other side.

All depends on if you plan to install the wooden floor ongoing (i.e. without thresholds in between the rooms).
Is so, thin sheets of hardboard (3mm) would be sufficient.
If you install all areas as different rooms i.e. using thresholds in between then you use one type of underlayment for those rooms containing concrete (with DPM) and another type for rooms with the existing floorboards (foam underlayment)

Filling large knots

I have 45sq mtrs of European oak tg flooring 190mmx20mm to lay on joists in my loft conversion, lengths mostly 3mtrs plus, I am going to finish the floor with 2 coats of Liberon floor sealer plus 2 coats of Liberon floor wax. There are rather a lot of knots that will require some sort of filling. What is the best way to deal with knots in European oak to provide the most descrete finish?

The best option is to sand the floor once it is installed with at least grit 80, collect the sand-dust, mix that with wood-filler and fill the knots with it. After it has dried you sand again with grit 120 to remove any excess filler.