Gaps in floorboards: not to worry

It's that time of the year again: gaps appearing in floorboards

In this period our web site is being found by a lot by people "Googling" on: floorboard gap; floorboard gap filler; gaps in floorboards, etc.
We "wood like" to explain that in this time of the year and with this weather that gaps appearing in floorboards is pretty usual. We keep track of the air humidity in our house and shop on a daily basis and during the end of autumn and winter it can drop as low as 35 - 40%

Wood works all year round and when the weather (climate) gets dryer, wood will get dryer also (as will your skin). Then it is very normal for floorboards to shrink and for gaps to appear. These gaps will disappear again when the air humidity gets higher

It's no use to fill them; it's part of the way wood works.

What you could do (to keep the wood and also yourself healthy): attach ceramic water containers on radiators (check regularly that they are still filled with water; you can also add a few drop of a fragrant in for a nicer or fresher smell) or hang a damp tea-towel (not dripping wet!) on radiators; that will increase the humidity slightly.


For more on wooden flooring and house-climate see here

Comments

[Richard]

Fantastic blog - full of informative content. I will be linking back from some of our sites in the near future.
Best regards,

Richard McKay
McKay Hardwood Flooring
www.mckayflooring.co.uk

[jill]

I would really appreciate some advice on how to seal an orginal oak floor in a Georgian house also what grade sand paper to use for the final sanding. I have been reading about hard wax oils, would this be suitable for this type of floor, also (last question I promise) should i opt for the natural option in terms of colour if I want to preserve the orginal appearence, Sorry for all the questions I am a novice
thank you Jill

[Karin H.]

Hi Jill

The HardWaxOil works as a seal, the oil in the product penetrates the wood for long term protection (sealing it off from most while allowing the wood to breath) and the wax in the two-in-one products acts as your wear and tear layer.

If you have an original Oak floor a natural finish would be best to preserve its character. You should be aware that sanding the floor might also remove part of the patina and it can take up to two years before the wood matures again to its original colour.

I would like to redirect you to one of our guides for advice on what grit to use by sanding.

Wood You Like Ltd

[Jill]

Thank you for your reply and the reply in the other forum. I have decieded to use the hard wax oil which i am about to order from you. the floor is going to need some sanding as it is a bit of a state but still a beutiful floor, it has a fair amount of the black wax which i intend to try and remove with white spirit, as a novice, what gade sand paper for a light sand, thank you for your help

[Karin H.]

Hi again Jill

That's the best action you can take first: removing as much old wax as possible because otherwise that will clog up your sanding paper and spread everything out too.

Depending on the roughness of your floor you could start with grit 80 or 100. The last sanding should be done with grit 120 - not higher - to get the best surface to apply the HardWaxOil on.

Wood You Like Ltd

[laura jones]

What would happen if i never put down a sub floor before laying the parquet flooring ? Because some one said you havent got are they right ? please help kind regards laura

[Karin H.]

Hi Laura

This depends on two items: what is your underfloor and what is the seize (W x H x L) of your parquet blocks?
If you would be kind enough to tell me that I can advice further.

Wood You Like Ltd

At 18:37 14/02/2009, you wrote:

[laura jones]

hello karin
Thank you for getting back to me i have floor boards in front room and dining room and concrete in the kithen. The parquet blocks are 23 cm long 7 and half cm width and the height is 2 and half cm thanks i hope that helps.

[Karin H.]

Hi Laura

The thick blocks do need a subfloor in your front room and dining room. Installing them straight on the existing floorboards could cause loosening of the blocks in the long run due to movement of the floorboards.

Screw 6 to 12mm plywood down first.

On the concrete floor you don't need a subfloor, due to the thickness of your wood blocks. But only if your concrete floor is sound and level

Hope this helps

Wood You Like Ltd

At 18:40 15/02/2009, you wrote: