Wood You Like applies and promotes
the Kiss principle (Keep It Simple Sweetheart) in all areas of the business.
This means we will give you straightforward advice in plain English and without the technical jargon.
Our tips and advice blog covers many areas of Natural Wooden Flooring: from the benefits, installation tips to taking care of your wooden flooring.
It is very simple for you to ask your own question: follow
this link to our online question form
Here you can ask your own question and we will answer it to the best of our knowledge and as quick as possible. If relevant your question will be turned into a new post for the benefit of our other visitors.
As the acknowledged authority on wooden flooring, many architects, interior designers and property developers, nationally and locally, frequently call
'Wood You Like' for advice on choice and suitability of different wooden flooring and advice on the fitting and maintenance.
If you have a query, try our 'tips and advice' pages that follow - or give us a call on
01233 713725 for your personal solution to wooden flooring.
Wood You Like
I have 45sq mtrs of European oak tg flooring 190mmx20mm to lay on joists in my loft conversion, lengths mostly 3mtrs plus...
Read more...........
Posted by: barry tree | 14 February 2007 at 11:09 AM
I've read your guidance on installing over 2 types of subfloor. In our case most of the floor is newly laid concrete with two areas of wood floorboards.
Read more........
Posted by: Kath Guille | 21 February 2007 at 10:59 AM
We are laying a reclaimed parquet floor but we are not sure what adhesive we should use, the original floor was layed with bitchamin (unsure of spelling.
With thanks,
Audrey and Roy Griffiths
Posted by: Audrey Griffiths | 01 March 2007 at 04:32 PM
Audrey, thank you for sending us more information:
"Type of material to be laid is oak parquet blocks size 9"x21/2" x 3/4" to be laid on an asphalt floor. Underfloor heating is not involved. It was previously laid using bitumen (cold curing). We have removed this. What would you recommend we us now."
There are various brands of adhesive you can use since the bitumen has been removed: Stycobond B92 or B91 (F. Ball) etc. We use these brands ourselves with these works and we know they are good and reliable products.
Wood You Like Ltd
Posted by: Karin | 04 March 2007 at 02:05 PM
I am laying solid oak flooring in the hallway, which i have just discovered to be a concrete floor. I still have the original underaly left from the carpet in the hall way its like a spongy mat type is this suitable underlay for the wood flooring. Do i have to nail the flooring or can it be simply glued along the T&G and laid on to the underlay?
Posted by: ben mcdermott | 12 March 2007 at 09:22 PM
Dear Ben
Carpet underlay is best suited for carpet, not for wooden flooring. Existing carpet underlayment can also contain much dirt and even bugs which have come through the carpet.
You need a combi-underlayment (includes a DPM layer) on which you can install the wooden flooring floating (glueing all T&G's completely).
Wood You Like Ltd
Posted by: Karin | 13 March 2007 at 09:22 AM
To kit or not to kit?
We are laying (or rather: having laid) a floor of so called 'industrial parquet'. The floorpieces are solid oak, about 16 cm in lenght, and 6 cm wide. The pieces are glued on an wooden surface. They will get a finishing of oil.
Read more.........
Posted by: Steven Derix | 17 April 2007 at 10:18 PM
Hi Steven
Thanks for this question. See this post for our advice
Posted by: Karin H. | 18 April 2007 at 11:07 AM
What is they best way to conduct everyday maintenance on solid oak varnished floors? (as far as foot prints, shoe scuffs..)
Posted by: Paul Sgrignoli | 15 July 2007 at 04:44 AM
Hi Paul
You can download (FREE) our maintenance and stain leaflet on our download page, this will tell you what you need to know/do.
Posted by: Karin H. | 15 July 2007 at 12:46 PM
I have some reclaimed hardwood block with bitumen still stuck on the bottom, however they are uniformly spread. I was told they can be laid without cleaning. But I should use an adhesive that can be 'troweled' rather than blocks for dipping as Balls F21. Can you recommend a suitable thick adhesive.
Ash
Posted by: Ashfaq | 16 July 2007 at 07:20 PM
Hi Ashfaq
It's always best to remove as much bitumen as possible from wood blocks. If it's just a thin even layer than removing more would be a very hard task indeed, but loose bits or thick layers should be removed.
You can use Stycobond B92 or B91 (F. Ball) with a notched trowel. Beware that the bonding time of the adhesive will be longer than normal due to the bitumen residue.
Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd
Posted by: Karin H. | 17 July 2007 at 09:10 AM
My existing floor construction is 19mm waterproof chipboard sheeting on battens on concrete floor. i wish to lay 14mm engineered oak floor (4mm oak veneer) To try and maintain constant finished floor levels between adjacent rooms can I use 9mm WPB ply instead of the chipboard?
Posted by: Julian Saunders | 08 February 2008 at 12:56 PM
Welcome Julian
If your battens aren't really high (and insulation is placed in between) then I don't think going for the 9mm ply would cause you problems.
The only thing you could notice is a bit more 'bouncing' feeling because of the thinner layer of your subfloor.
Hope this helps
Wood You Like Ltd
Posted by: Karin H. | 08 February 2008 at 01:19 PM